To the Peak District

This past Sunday was Father’s Day! (Hooray for a holiday that’s the same in the U.S. and the U.K.!) I kept saying to the boys, “Whatever Daddy wants to do, we’ll do! He gets to pick!” Being the loving son he is, Bennett responded, “Aww, does this mean we have to go on a hike again?”

I get it. We love hiking and exploring, and there are so many beautiful places to hike around England, Wales and Scotland…how can you not? I want the boys to feel the sense of accomplishment and the wind on their face as they stand at the top of the peak.

But I would be lying if I hadn’t felt the same as Bennett. My May birthday fell on a Saturday this year. I struggled with it a bit. Holidays and special days are hard since Grant died, a reminder of the days he’s not here with us. It was compounded this year by being in a new country, away from family and friends…and I just wasn’t up for celebrating or climbing.

So, when Tim asked if I wanted to go for a hike that day, I responded pretty much the same as Bennett. We laid low and ordered takeaway instead. By Monday I had changed my tune. It was a bank holiday, meaning Tim was off work and the boys off of school, and it felt like we should take advantage of the day and tackle the great outdoors once again. Therefore, I present to you, another blog post about a beautiful thing we hiked!

There are so many unique and beautiful districts and regions in the U.K., and besides the Lake District, Peak District was No. 2 on recommendation lists. It’s to the east of us about 50 miles, located mostly in the counties of Derbyshire and Staffordshire.

On the drive there, we saw lots of outdoor activities, forests and lakes and a spot where we definitely want to take the boys back to for whitewater rafting. We drove to Ilam Hall, a beautiful building and park with a tearoom and courtyard. It was gifted to the historic trust decades ago and is now a youth hostel and hosts school children for residential getaways.

We started our journey there, then walked through the village of Ilam, past the historic stone church and lovely Alpine-style homes. Through the small town, we crossed the road into a large field filled with sheep. The next field was filled with cows. The next, sheep.

It first struck me as odd that the walking paths are right of ways through fields, but now I love it – a mutual respect between walkers, farmers and their animals. Plus, who doesn’t like seeing fluffy lambs frolicking in the field? (Just don’t come between baby and mama.)

In the distance, you could see our destination, the flat top of Thorpe Cloud – a limestone hill that rises above the surrounding area. One of the reasons this walk was recommended to us was the Stepping Stones. As you leave the fields, you turn and walk along the banks of the River Dove. It’s a scenic area, and on a warmer day, probably perfect for wading. I think the boys considered it, though it was anything but a warm day.

Here, you arrive at the Stepping Stones. The large stones are placed strategically across the river and were first laid in 1890, as the area became more popular with Victorian tourists. We waited for our turn on the stones. Of course, it was a bank holiday so the crowds were likely thicker than usual, and lines formed on each side – letting a wave go through from one side and then the next side takes a turn.

There’s always those people that just can’t be bothered to wait. To be clear, the stones are large enough to step on, but not ideal for two people going in different directions. We watched a woman, opposite the side that was taking their turn, eagerly set out on the stones anyway. People from the other side who were already halfway out looked at her – looks of annoyance and disbelief and irritation crossed their face. It became apparent that there wasn’t enough room for two people. Of course, the impatient woman ended in the river, only about halfway up her legs, but still, we wondered, was it worth it?!

We took our turn and crossed over to the other side. In one direction were caves, the other, Thorpe Cloud. We circled the base because a lady who sold us a map told us it was easier to climb from the back. We started up, a little sluggish and low on energy. Bennett – our cheerleader from Arthur’s Seat in Scotland, was quieter. Nate – who had scrambled Orrest Head in the Lake District wearing old sneakers, meandered in his hiking boots. Luckily, we had a Facetime call with our friends (thanks, Nenckas!) about halfway up, giving us a jolt of energy.

Finally, we made it to the top. What looked quite flat from a distance was more of a rugged peak that made walking little difficult. Also difficult? The whirling, roaring wind. We tried to take a few photos and looked at the scenery beyond. We were proud to see how far we had come from the hall and parking and fields and stones. With the stunning view, we also realized we had to now make it all the way back.

We worked our way back down, finding a shorter path on our way and waited to cross the stepping stones. This time we shared the stones with a delightful furry friend. I was annoyed when the lady went when she wasn’t supposed to, but a dog? Tell him he’s a good boy and pet him and as he almost pushes you off, apologize to him.

As our energy waned, we knew only one thing would help and it was ice cream. Not far from the stones was a little stand and the boys (and Tim) picked their flavors. It was just enough sugar to propel us through the fields back to Ilam Hall, where we ordered more food from the tea room, and sat outside staring over the courtyard to Thorpe’s Cloud, which now seemed so far away and so very tall.

That’s one of the reasons I write here – to remember these moments. Yes, sometimes the hike can feel daunting or repetitive. But that moment at the top, or even the relief when you’re back at the start, is worth it. And it is stunningly beautiful and breathtaking each time, in each location. Thanks for getting us up that hill, Tim, that day and every day. Happy Father’s Day.